Checked out of the nice hotel and got an auto-rickshaw (with a giant speaker in the back) to the bus station. Took the local bus 4 hours to Madurai bus station then another bus to the old city.
Trawled the street of hotels and found a nice place to stay. Went to a cheap, clean cafe and had South Indian lemon rice and onion bhajis (like I’ve never tasted before– like a whole chunk of soft onion in a doughnut – amazing).
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