Day 143 : Hervey Bay to Rockhampton

Spent the morning trying to use the internet in a McDonalds near the Hervey Bay Greyhound station. The laptop wouldn’t turn on so I had to dismantle it in McDonalds using a penknife screwdriver – turned out to be a loose cable but a bunch of screws were missing from the inside and after a sweaty run around the nearby shops I couldn’t locate any replacements. Sellotape had to do for now.

After a 6 hour bus journey along the Queensland coastal bush we arrived in Rockhampton; the meat capitol of Australia. We’re staying in the YHA for a couple of days. It’s pretty basic, but we were lucky to get an upgrade from our dorm to a double room because they were so busy. Tomorrow we’re going on a day trip to a farm in the outback, so another early start.

Day 142 : Fraser Island day 3

Not such an early start today as we managed to pack in so much in the previous two days that there wasn’t much more to see! After a breakfast of pancakes on the bbq we drove to a beach resort at Eurong – a large complex with a bakery, store and apartments. Rango showed us some of the private houses in Eurong as we drove up to Lake McKenzie and then had a few hours of swimming and relaxing on the beach.

In the afternoon we drove over to the Kingfisher resort on the other side of the island which is where our ferry back to the mainland departed. Before we left, we managed to have a cheeky swim in the pool and the cold(!) jacuzzi.

A lazy evening back at the hostel as people go their separate ways. Most of the group are in the hostel tonight and we’re off on a greyhound to Rockhampton around lunchtime tomorrow.

Day 141 : Fraser Island day 2

Another early start – we were up for sunrise over the beach at 0445 and then straight on the road (or rather, beach) after a quick breakfast. There are lots of marsh flies about around the camp so you don’t want to hang around!

First stop was the Kirrar sandblow or Rainbow Gorge – lots of multicoloured sand and sandblasted trees. We drove up to Eli creek and Rango arranged for us to go on a 20 minute flight on one of the 8 seater planes run by Air Fraser. It felt very similar to the plane we went skydiving from, but we didn’t go very high this time – we got some great views of the island and shipwreck further up the beach. After a quick dip in Eli creek, we drove up to the wreck of the Maheno and then on to the Pinnacles, Red canyon and all the way up to the Champagne Pools. I was driving the last part and, after 3 attempts, failed to get our land trooper through a large patch of soft sand, so we had to abandon it - our guide, Rango, obviously didn’t fancy his chances of taking it through either!

After a swim in the champagne pools, we walked up to Indian Head – one of the 3 rocky outcrops that caused Fraser Island to form. We saw some dolphins playing in the surf, a large turtle and huge manta rays from the cliff top. Heading back down the beach towards camp, we stopped over at Cathedral Beach for an ice cream at the petrol station / general store. We were stopped by a dingo running in front of the lead car to beg for food – it had a really bulky tracking collar which seemed a bit cruel.

We had a final wash at Eli creek (no showers / toilets at camp) and then another massive bbq back at the camp (we were a little overstocked with food!) with plenty of goon!

Day 140 : Fraser Island day 1

Up early to checkout of the hostel and pack the cars. As the group is so small, we only have two cars – an 8 seat Land Trooper and a 6 seat Land Cruiser which our guide, Rango, will be driving. Louise took the first driving shift to the ferry (only 3 of us in the group are used to driving on the left, the others didn’t want to take their chances on the mainland). We had to reverse onto the ferry – quite fun in a fully loaded Land Trooper without a functioning handbrake!

Once on the island, we had our first experience of the sandy tracks that snake along the rainforest. Louise drove us to our first stop, Central Station, a logging facility and village that was abandoned when the logging ceased in the 1990s. It was really good to have Rango to show us around – not only to tell us about the history, but also about the interesting ferns (tree ferns and giant king ferns), trees and wildlife. While the others walked through the rainforest in Pile Valley, Rango and I drove the cars around to the end of the trail. The “roads” on Fraser are just sand tracks and often very rough, so it’s pretty slow going but a lot of fun! Apparently they are extra soft at the moment de to the lack of rainfall. We drove to Lake Birrabeen and had a welcome swim – lots of tea trees around the shore, and the sand is very fine (apparently it was used to polish the lens for the Hubble telescope).

Next stop was the Lake Wabby lookout where you get a great view over a sandblow and the lake. In the carpark we came across a dead “Death Viper” or “50 minute snake” – hopefully we won’t see a live one! From the east beach we walked the 35 minute track to Lake Wabby. It was getting late so we didn’t swim because we needed to get to the camp and set up. The camp is just off the beach near Eurong and the tents were already pitched, so it was just a case of unloading our bags and food and enjoying a late bbq.

Day 139 : Hervey bay

Took the greyhound from Noosa to Hervey Bay – our base before we set off to Fraser Island tomorrow. The Palace hostel doesn’t live up to its name – pretty grim, but functional. Met up with our group for Fraser; there are 11 of us and our guide, Rango, so a nice small group. Went to the supermarket to stock up for the next 3 days on the island where we need to be self sufficient.  Early night because we have to be up at 5am to have a “driving on sand” briefing, load up our cars and catch the ferry at 0830.

Day 138 : Eumundi / Noosa

• Got up early to see if there was any surf – better than usual at a 1/2 to 1ft manage to catch a few little rides on the free softies from the hostel. Saw whatever we saw on the walk yesterday in the water about 50yards from us – still not convinced of what it is – dolphin / litle whale / shark? Seen so many dolphins would have thought I’d recognise one unless its a different species that moves in a different way. No lice today :- )
• Took the bus to Eumundi where there is a massive market. Picked up some new (non smelly) sandals for Will and grabbed some free tasters of everything from fried cinnamon macadamia to German sausage

Day 137 : Noosa

• Walked along the Noosa National park coast to “hell’s gate” and then inland through the park back to Noosa heads. Saw a black parrot with rosy yellow cheeks!?, little lizards and a pod of something – looked bigger than dolphins moving in a differetn way – not humpbacks that are migrating at the mo something smaller but not sure what…..
• Tried to surf on the free softies but no surf so practised paddling and standing on the boards whilst at standstill. Experienced sea lice for the first time – prickly!
• Went to Coles in Noosa junction