Day 290 : Travel to Agra

Had breakfast then walked to the bus station. Took a very rickety bus to Agra – the side of the bus looked like it was about to fall off at any point. Got stuck in a bit of a jam (was amazed at how the buffalo that was in a trailer in front of us was so calm and nonchalant).

Checked into our home stay in Agra which is a lovely posh home owned by an Indian family. Went for lunch in a place that does special ice-cream. Went to a rooftop cafe in the evening and saw our first view of the Taj Mahal which was absolutely stunning. Watched the full moon rise then made our way back in an auto rickshaw getting stuck in yet another procession (probably another wedding celebration).

Met a nice couple from Canada and had a chat with one of the homestay brothers.

Day 289 : Fatehpur Sikri

Up at 6 had breakfast and arrived early Lama Masjid mosque and the Royal Palace.

The mosque was built in 1571 by the emperor Akbar. It has the most enormous staircase (populated by goats) leading up to the stunning, gargantuan gateway. This leads into an impressive square with beautiful gateways and prayer halls.

The palace is an extensive and impressive array of buildings and courtyards in a variety of styles. Because we got there early the place was almost deserted. Some of the courtyards were so big and empty they gave me that giddy, silly feeling like when you go into an empty sports hall and it makes you want to prance around!

Walked around the little village which feels very old style and not influenced by being next to one of the biggest tourist attractions in India (think most people come on day trips from Agra and don’t go to the village). Like everywhere they have barbers shaving men on chairs on the street. Today I saw a women having dentistry in the same way - gross!    

Day 288 : Safari and train to Fatehpur Sikri

Up early again for another safari, managed to get on a jeep. It was a relatively cool morning which was nice. Saw the usual deer and antelope and a big family of langur monkeys hanging out with spotted deer. New animal – saw two jackals – they ran up to a waterhole and wallowed in the water.

Chatted to some nice people in the hotel then got a rickshaw to the station. Got the train to Fatephur Sikri and arrived at about half 8. The train stopped in the middle track so we had to climb down the steep steps onto the tracks and haul ourselves and our bags onto the platform.

Checked into our random motel style hotel. Decided to sweat out the cheap room as a.c. twice the price. 

Day 287 : Tiger Safari

Up at 5 had breakfast then left for the park at about 6.30.

A leopard had been spotted just outside the park, we were very lucky to see it. It was chilling out in a tree on the hillside quite far away. It looked huge. A shame the guide or no-one had binoculars. Managed to borrow some for half a minute from another jeep. The leopard was gorgeous. It was just lying with its legs hanging over the branch and occasionally shoeing away the birds that were pestering it.

It seems we weren't in the tiger zone this morning (the jeeps get allocated zones – they know where the tigers are but obviously wouldn’t let us know that we’re not in the right zone). But we saw lots of animals and most of them new to us….

Loads of different birds – green pigeons, lots of peacocks spreading their tail feathers!, jungle babbler, some sort of magpie, a bulbul. We saw gazelles, spotted deer (think these are the same as the one’s that are common in the UK) samba deer (huge ears!) and blue antelope which are huge!

Had a quick swim in the pool (they have a pool!) (Will still bit under the weather). The hotel predictably messed up our booking so we ended up on a “canter” which is a big, sawn-off lorry that carries about 40 people. Went to a different part of the park. Saw the fort which is impressively high up a cliff. Didn’t see many animals bu saw a crocodile, mongoose and a peacock shaking its tail feathers!

Day 286 : Jaipur to Ranthambhore

Had breakfast in the peacock then walking home through the housing estate we saw real, wild peacocks walking around on the wall! We said to the hotel guy we could hear peacocks calling in the night but he said it was a milk wallah.

Checked out of our beautiful room. Was in a bad mood for no reason this morning and I take it back about people not staring anymore. At the train station people still stared at me and it feels like I’m having an episode of paranoia!

Waited for our transfer from Sawaimadhopur station, had to ring them to remind them to pick us up while we fended off rickshaw drivers pretending to be our transfer.

Arrived at Tiger safari resort which is one of the hotels that sit on the edge of town. It’s a small dusty, deserty town with lots of pigs and cows wandering around, lots of jeeps and many camels towing trailers. Room is nice, we weren't expecting much as this place is renowned for ripping off it’s captive market.

Day 285 : Hawa Mahal

Had breakfast at the peacock then got a rickshaw to Hawa Mahal near the city palace. Will still feeling under the weather with a cold.

Hawa Mahal (1799) is a stunning palace that was designed to allow women to view the outside world without being seen so therefor keeping "purdah". The place is a beautiful labyrinth of corridors, ornate windows and lattice work that all allows one-way viewing.I feel like this place and the astrological park both look like pictures from those puzzle books or Dali paintings.

Wandered through the bazaars but we feel the shopping is a bit disappointing probably because the guide books describe it as a shopping mecca but we think other places were better so we should have bought more before.

Back to our gorgeous room for Will to chill out and get better.

Day 284 : Jaipur

Up early and packed our bags so they can be moved to the new room. Had breakfast at the peacock then got a rickshaw to the Jantar Mantar and the city palace within the pink city walls. The walled city is pretty and unusually it has very wide roads (founded 1727) but it's not as attractive as say Udaipur or other places.

Jantar Mantar (1727) is a peculiar garden full of astrology (and astronomy) equipment from the 1700's. It is so the priests could calculate things like a good date to get married etc. It is home to the worlds largest sun dial (large is an understatement - 27 meters tall).

The palace is nice but we are feeling a bit sightseeinged out! Although I did get very excited about some absolutely exquisite doors (see album).

Saw more men with bright Rajasthani turbans and curly mustaches (its not only people who work in museums but regular people too).

Walked around the shops a bit then went to the Raj Mandir cinema to pick up tickets for a 3pm showing - there is only one choice - "Agent Vinod" starring Saif Ali Khan a Bollywood superstar who can be seen advertising anything from crisps to vests.

Had dinner then went into the cinema - it has a beautiful grand reception hall - it was built in 1976 but in Art Deco style and is wonderful. The film was ok and although in Hindi you get the gist of the plot.

Checked into our new room which I think is nicer than the last one. The "bathroom" (well they don't have baths here) is the poshest bathroom I've ever seen including ones in posh lifestlye magazines! It will look less posh when we hang up our clothes to dry (laundry is expensive in India I think because it is done by hand so we do it all ourselves).