Day 297 : Last day in Delhi

Got the metro and an auto to South Delhi to go to go to a cooking class and a lady called Jyoti's house. There was us two and an American guy. It was an intense 4 hours of Indian cookery although more like a demonstration than actually cooking ourselves although this was a good way to fit more in and we’ll just have to practice at home. Had lots of good food to eat and definitely learnt some stuff.

Took the metro back to Khan market for Will to try on his suit – the trousers and waistcoat are perfect but jacket not very slim cut. Left the shop then after thinking about it went back and persuaded them to sort it out even though we had to be on the plane in that night.

Went home then again back to Khan market Will tried the jacket it was altered but he’s still not totally happy but it looks really nice. Gave up with the rickshaws and took another metro journey home.

Note:
The hotel is completely wonky at first we thought we were tired as we walked up the stairs but then realised that each floor and the stairs is completely unlevel and wonky! It’s like Fun House!
Shopping especially in the malls is a pain – you have to go through security scanner and serached then every time you go into a shop you either have to hand your bag in or have it cable tied up!

Behaviour on the metro: The metro in new, clean and modern. Even it is always bust there is always room especially in the middle of the carriage but everyone squashes up buy the door and it’s like a race / rugby scrum when you get on and off even when it’s not busy! Each time I’ve been in que to get on I’ve had full grown, middle aged men in smart business suits scrambling and pushing past me to get onto a half empty carriage as if his life depended on it! What’s that about!

Taxi booked for 1.30 am all packed up! Can’t beleive it!

Day 296 : National museum / cinema

Will had his sunglasses case stolen from his rucksack while waiting to cross the road outside our hotel – luckily he was wearing his sunglasses. Got the metro to the national museum. Walked across Rajpath where the parliament buildings are.

The museum has some really funky animal sculptures from 6000 B.C. Had tea in the canteen then took the metro to West Delhi to see what the shopping malls looked like. Normal malls but a lot of the shops too expensive for us. Most shops seem to have more staff than customers and it's really off-putting being followed by a horde of shop staff! Went to see "Houseful 2", a Bollywood film. The plot was a little hard to follow (being in Hindi and all) and the films are very long but I enjoyed the songs, dancing and costumes.

Walked back from the metro via the “backpacker” area - really horrible and skanky. Had dinner in the sweetshop / restaurant opposite our hotel – a very nice dosa.

I do find the juxtaposition of rich and poor in India odd. Like today walking across a bit of wasteland between 2 malls there are street kids who hang around (out of reach from the door guards) near these malls that have shops like Hugo Boss and Lacoste. Or you see a flash business man on his phone on a cycle rickshaw. Or very expensive 4x4's driving around old men pulling massively heavy carts. It must be weird being middle class and having a life much like my own but being surrounded by people who's lives are unimaginable to me. I think I have been surprised by how well fed and the animals are and that most people seem to have food (food seems to be everywhere - like on the floor and in the piles of rubbish), but still there are a lot of poor people surrounded by a lot of rich!

Day 295 : Delhi by cycle

Got up at 5 and took an auto rickshaw to Old Delhi to our guide from the Dutch company Delhi by Cycle. Met some nice people on the tour. Had no helmets Dutch style.

We cycled down butcher street (a mainly Muslim area) – it’s the first time (apart from the odd chicken) that I’ve seen meat and carcasses around (buffalo and goat) – gross! The entrance to the metro station in the centre of Old Delhi is funny because it’s surrounded by donkeys, pack horses and general Indian chaos that could be from any era (apart from the motorbikes).

We cycled through the wholesale spice market and walked up to a rooftop to see the view. The chilli dust in the air made our eyes water and I was retching because I was coughing so much!

Got completely soaked in the rain – even got a bit chilly until I dried out (it’s been 35 degrees here but has now cooled down a bit). Went through some posh suburbs and had a chai stop. Went past the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid and a Sikh and Jain temple.

Had brunch in a long established canteen that serves goat curry (only tried the tiniest bit of meat as didn’t fancy it that much) and roti type bread. The cycle tour was really enjoyable and we finished in one piece.
Went back to Khan bazaar for Will’s suit fitting we think it’s gonna be ok – we pick it up on friday. Went to McDonalds (for research purposes off course, we were curious), they have a lot of veg options, had a veg burger it was OK.

Had a dosa and chai room service dinner.

Day 294 : Delhi Markets

Got up late and had breakfast at the grubby rooftop cafe in our hotel. Good view over Delhi but very smoggy. Spent a bit of time organising other activities for the week – a cycle tour tomorrow and cookery class on Friday.

Took the Metro out to Dilli Haat, a handcraft market in South Delhi with the usual fare of textiles, miniature paintings and carvings. Ate momos in a cafe there – reminded us of Darjeeling - and bought a few presents. After this we headed to the nearby Sarojini Nagar where there are lots of shops selling western-style clothes and an export surplus market. We threw out a lot of clothes before we came away and they are very cheap here so Loulou bought a bought some jeans and tops.

Flagging a bit after all the markets so went for coffee in Connaught Place – the “centre” of New Delhi. We expected it to be quite smart but it seemed to be mostly a building site and lots of scruffy shops.

As we came out of the Metro to come home we were engulfed by a massive dust / thunder storm – you could hardy see more than 20m because of the dust and 2 minutes later we were running through heavy rain and an incredible lightening storm to get back to the hotel! I think it’s the heaviest rain we’ve seen since Memphis. Hopefully it’ll clear up for our cycle tour tomorrow morning…

Day 293 : Agra to New Delhi

Left the lovely home stay – the mother gave me a big hug and said “come back with your children”. Got an auto to the station and caught our last Indian train! It was 30 minutes delayed making our total delay time over 13 train journeys (equal to a week of travel) 35 minutes!

Got a taxi transfer to our hotel north of Pahar Ganj on a dusty, busy side street. Hotel is relatively nice - a typical Indian style hotel. Delhi seems quite modern it has pavements and the like.

Took an auto to Khan market which is weird its in an okish area but then has shops like in Covent garden. Will got measured for a suit (got a few weddings to go to!) and parted with some cash and now we hope it will turn out ok! Had some food in the turtle cafe – a bookshop cafe that serves nice western style cafe food.

Tried to get a metro home but struggled to get back from the station (we went to the wrong one for a start) plus no one’s heard of our hotel so trying to get an auto or cycle rickshaw was hard and we tried walking but went the wrong way. Finally got a cycle rickshaw who we then had an argument with over the agreed price.

Finally got home! The hotel seem very keen to sell us beer - we had a couple of Kingfishers (extra strong!) which we felt we deserved after the stress of getting home.

Day 292 : Agra fort

Not up too early today, had breakfast then took an auto to Agra fort (built in by the same guy who built the stuff in Fatehpur Sikri). Had an audio guide and wandered around the red fort and marble palace.

Walked along the road to the Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) and wandered around the bazaars – lots of shoe, marble and material shops - nothing for us really.

Agra is weird. The bazaars around the fort and the Taj are mainly normal and and not touristy - you don’t really see many tourists around. I’m not sure if it’s just low season or if most people arrive in coaches and don’t walk around.

Took an auto back home. Almost hit a young cow that ran into the road but just managed to avoid it (it had a lovely pink beaded necklace on – the cows here are very fashionable).

Had a nice lunch. In the past few weeks our food bill has gone up. We used to be able to get a full meal and drinks for 2 in a restaurant for just under £1 now we are spending at least £3. A masala dosa (potato curry in a pancake thing with dips, chutneys etc and a soup) in the south is about 30p now it’s £1.

Went to the roof top cafe to have a last evening drink with the view of the Taj. Watched some kite fighting over the rooftops saw a few kites get cut loose – one loose kite flew right over our heads!

Walked home via a roundabout we have been past at least 5 times – the same bull stands in the middle of it everyday – we took a video. Saw another coal-fired iron on the street.

Day 291 : The Taj Mahal

Up at 5 and walked to the Taj entry gate. Queued for a bit then got in with the first crowds. You go through a very impressive gateway then get the full view of the beautiful Taj Mahal. Had a wander around.

Got back home had breakfast, chilled out. Got a cycle rickshaw to Sadar bazaar had lunch then tried to wander around the shops and stalls (although we couldn’t find many) Will bought some everyday shoes. Still both bit under the weather won’t do much this evening.

Day 290 : Travel to Agra

Had breakfast then walked to the bus station. Took a very rickety bus to Agra – the side of the bus looked like it was about to fall off at any point. Got stuck in a bit of a jam (was amazed at how the buffalo that was in a trailer in front of us was so calm and nonchalant).

Checked into our home stay in Agra which is a lovely posh home owned by an Indian family. Went for lunch in a place that does special ice-cream. Went to a rooftop cafe in the evening and saw our first view of the Taj Mahal which was absolutely stunning. Watched the full moon rise then made our way back in an auto rickshaw getting stuck in yet another procession (probably another wedding celebration).

Met a nice couple from Canada and had a chat with one of the homestay brothers.

Day 289 : Fatehpur Sikri

Up at 6 had breakfast and arrived early Lama Masjid mosque and the Royal Palace.

The mosque was built in 1571 by the emperor Akbar. It has the most enormous staircase (populated by goats) leading up to the stunning, gargantuan gateway. This leads into an impressive square with beautiful gateways and prayer halls.

The palace is an extensive and impressive array of buildings and courtyards in a variety of styles. Because we got there early the place was almost deserted. Some of the courtyards were so big and empty they gave me that giddy, silly feeling like when you go into an empty sports hall and it makes you want to prance around!

Walked around the little village which feels very old style and not influenced by being next to one of the biggest tourist attractions in India (think most people come on day trips from Agra and don’t go to the village). Like everywhere they have barbers shaving men on chairs on the street. Today I saw a women having dentistry in the same way - gross!    

Day 288 : Safari and train to Fatehpur Sikri

Up early again for another safari, managed to get on a jeep. It was a relatively cool morning which was nice. Saw the usual deer and antelope and a big family of langur monkeys hanging out with spotted deer. New animal – saw two jackals – they ran up to a waterhole and wallowed in the water.

Chatted to some nice people in the hotel then got a rickshaw to the station. Got the train to Fatephur Sikri and arrived at about half 8. The train stopped in the middle track so we had to climb down the steep steps onto the tracks and haul ourselves and our bags onto the platform.

Checked into our random motel style hotel. Decided to sweat out the cheap room as a.c. twice the price. 

Day 287 : Tiger Safari

Up at 5 had breakfast then left for the park at about 6.30.

A leopard had been spotted just outside the park, we were very lucky to see it. It was chilling out in a tree on the hillside quite far away. It looked huge. A shame the guide or no-one had binoculars. Managed to borrow some for half a minute from another jeep. The leopard was gorgeous. It was just lying with its legs hanging over the branch and occasionally shoeing away the birds that were pestering it.

It seems we weren't in the tiger zone this morning (the jeeps get allocated zones – they know where the tigers are but obviously wouldn’t let us know that we’re not in the right zone). But we saw lots of animals and most of them new to us….

Loads of different birds – green pigeons, lots of peacocks spreading their tail feathers!, jungle babbler, some sort of magpie, a bulbul. We saw gazelles, spotted deer (think these are the same as the one’s that are common in the UK) samba deer (huge ears!) and blue antelope which are huge!

Had a quick swim in the pool (they have a pool!) (Will still bit under the weather). The hotel predictably messed up our booking so we ended up on a “canter” which is a big, sawn-off lorry that carries about 40 people. Went to a different part of the park. Saw the fort which is impressively high up a cliff. Didn’t see many animals bu saw a crocodile, mongoose and a peacock shaking its tail feathers!

Day 286 : Jaipur to Ranthambhore

Had breakfast in the peacock then walking home through the housing estate we saw real, wild peacocks walking around on the wall! We said to the hotel guy we could hear peacocks calling in the night but he said it was a milk wallah.

Checked out of our beautiful room. Was in a bad mood for no reason this morning and I take it back about people not staring anymore. At the train station people still stared at me and it feels like I’m having an episode of paranoia!

Waited for our transfer from Sawaimadhopur station, had to ring them to remind them to pick us up while we fended off rickshaw drivers pretending to be our transfer.

Arrived at Tiger safari resort which is one of the hotels that sit on the edge of town. It’s a small dusty, deserty town with lots of pigs and cows wandering around, lots of jeeps and many camels towing trailers. Room is nice, we weren't expecting much as this place is renowned for ripping off it’s captive market.

Day 285 : Hawa Mahal

Had breakfast at the peacock then got a rickshaw to Hawa Mahal near the city palace. Will still feeling under the weather with a cold.

Hawa Mahal (1799) is a stunning palace that was designed to allow women to view the outside world without being seen so therefor keeping "purdah". The place is a beautiful labyrinth of corridors, ornate windows and lattice work that all allows one-way viewing.I feel like this place and the astrological park both look like pictures from those puzzle books or Dali paintings.

Wandered through the bazaars but we feel the shopping is a bit disappointing probably because the guide books describe it as a shopping mecca but we think other places were better so we should have bought more before.

Back to our gorgeous room for Will to chill out and get better.

Day 284 : Jaipur

Up early and packed our bags so they can be moved to the new room. Had breakfast at the peacock then got a rickshaw to the Jantar Mantar and the city palace within the pink city walls. The walled city is pretty and unusually it has very wide roads (founded 1727) but it's not as attractive as say Udaipur or other places.

Jantar Mantar (1727) is a peculiar garden full of astrology (and astronomy) equipment from the 1700's. It is so the priests could calculate things like a good date to get married etc. It is home to the worlds largest sun dial (large is an understatement - 27 meters tall).

The palace is nice but we are feeling a bit sightseeinged out! Although I did get very excited about some absolutely exquisite doors (see album).

Saw more men with bright Rajasthani turbans and curly mustaches (its not only people who work in museums but regular people too).

Walked around the shops a bit then went to the Raj Mandir cinema to pick up tickets for a 3pm showing - there is only one choice - "Agent Vinod" starring Saif Ali Khan a Bollywood superstar who can be seen advertising anything from crisps to vests.

Had dinner then went into the cinema - it has a beautiful grand reception hall - it was built in 1976 but in Art Deco style and is wonderful. The film was ok and although in Hindi you get the gist of the plot.

Checked into our new room which I think is nicer than the last one. The "bathroom" (well they don't have baths here) is the poshest bathroom I've ever seen including ones in posh lifestlye magazines! It will look less posh when we hang up our clothes to dry (laundry is expensive in India I think because it is done by hand so we do it all ourselves).

Day 283 : Arrival in Jaipur

Arrived at 5am and went to the sister hotel of the one we're booked in as they have a waiting lounge there. Had breakfast in the beautiful rooftop cafe "the peacock". We've hit the serious tourist trail without even realizing but then I notice things like in a carriage there were a couple of other westerners and people aren't staring at me like I'm an alien. It's nice because people don't stare at me when I eat and it's also nice chatting to other British people. On the other hand I feel like a certain part of our India trip is now over, also I feel now that any Indians that approach us are only after our money!

Checked into Pearl Palace Heritage - it is very swanky - Will has booked a few expensive hotels for his "Birthday fortnight"! Well I say expensive - the same price as 1 person staying in an 8 bunk dorm in Oz. Our room is not available today so they put us in an even bigger suite that is about the same size as our flat.

Went to Anokhi which is a chain of fair-trade shops to buy some presents. We also ate in their cafe. It was all the weirdest experience. The shop and cafe are in an air conditioned little mall and the cafe was just like one you'd get in John Lewis or something. I had a gorgeous brie baguette. It's so weird because we haven't seen anywhere that looks this "normal" for such a long time.

Went back too our hotel then went to the peacock for dinner (no where else nearby to eat as we are in kind of housing estate, and the food's nice).

Day 282 : Another overnight train

Checked out of our room at 9 but spent all of today hanging out in the restaurant Will is making good progress on my website. It’s apparently 41 degrees today so think that’s why we didn't fancy walking around the fort. We were lucky with the weather for the trek as it wasn't too hot.

Just boarded the overnight train to Jaipur.

Day 281 : Return from the desert

Survived overnight in the desert. Didn’t get that much sleep – it was quite hot but then got really nice and cool (but too soon to dawn!), the giant beetles continued to be attracted to us but finally went to sleep, two dogs (one of them from earlier) wanted to sleep by us (made me feel guilty every time I had a drink as they looked on longingly) but they didn’t like each other so kept fighting.

A cool, white sun rose behind a haze. The camels were still there which was all good. Our guide made us boiled eggs, toast and chai over the fire. Met another dog who I was happy to see drinking the boiled egg water before the guide saw her.

Set off on a two hour ride to meet the jeep. Saw some deer (gazelles?) and a strange looking grey fox thing and some eagles.

Had lunch on the rooftop and stared at the life happening all around – the wild boar piglets are so cute! The sparrows are busy bobbing around collecting material for their nests – I love the chirp noise they make. Life (and it’s by-products) in India seems to seep into every nook and cranny no matter how inhospitable the environment may first appear to be.

Had a quick wander in the fort. Had dinner on the roof as usual – had 4 beers which quadrupled our usual bill.

Day 280 : Camel trek

Checked out at 9 and hung around the hotel on the rooftop and also in a cool window seat until we set off by jeep at 2. Met our fellow trekkers the lovely Sue and Nick from Yorkshire (who randomly have good friends in both Stroud and Cowbridge and know the places very well). 

Met our camels and Mr Singh our guide. The camels were friendly enough which is good because it means I could try and cuddle them. The camels were packed up with all our supplies before we got on. Will got the biggest camel and some reins as the guide asked who had experience riding (although I have 20 years experience he obviously didn’t ask me because I’m a women so my camel was attached to the one in front!).
We rode off into the distance (Will often being further in the distance as his camel was very keen so he got relegated to the back of the line).

We went through scrubby land towards a more deserty landscape and after 2 hours (which was plenty as there are no stirrups so not that comfy) arrived at a dune to set up camp. Mr Singh made us some chai and dinner whilst we looked at the dunes and the sunset. There a lots large black beetles (maybe dung beetles) that seem very attracted to us and won’t stop clambering onto us (anything’s better than spiders obviously and they’re quite cute but annoying).

A gorgeous dog came up to us looking thirsty and I talked to him and said I might give him a drink which he somehow understood and he lay down and put his head on my feet! I cut open a plastic bottle and let him drink he was so thirsty. He finally got shoed away by Mr Singh.

After dinner we rolled out our mattress and blanket and looked at the stars – the sky was quite hazy but it was nice to be comfy and look at the stars (only saw 1 shooting start – there seems to be more in the UK I’ve seen than anywhere else we’ve been).

Day 279 : Will’s 30th Birthday!

We were up at 4 to catch the train to Jaisalmer. Arrived at 11 and checked into our lovely havelli hotel. Had breakfast in the lovely roof top restaurant which has a great view of the fort.

The cake survived and I got the funny candle ready. The balloons I bought were typical of many things in India in that they barely worked at all. So I made a string of sorry looking funny shaped balloons and hung up a happy birthday sign. The candle was a pleasant surprise as when I lit it it expanded into a lotus flower and sang happy birthday! So I sang Happy Birthday and we ate cake yum.

And what did I get Will for his big 30th birthday? A kinder surprise!

Wandered into the beautiful fort and looked around the extensive alleyways (didn’t last that long as it’s so hot). There a lots of shops and homes (2000 people live within the walls). Bought some wedding gifts – we’re reaching the limit of carrying everything!

Had dinner in the rooftop cafe and had a couple of kingfishers to celebrate.

Day 278 : Wander around Jodhpur

Today we spent the morning wandering the streets of Jodhpur. We picked our away through the back streets and manoeuvred around the usual motorbikes and cows. Saw a couple of small processions (maybe to do with weddings?). The buildings are very picturesque. In the same way I'm collecting cow photos Will has started collecting door photos.

Saw a man trying to feed chapatis to a cow but the cow looked at him as if to say - do you think I want another chapati?? How about some cornflakes for breakfast tomorrow?

Wandered off to look for birthday related things, found a bakery and the guy iced Happy 30th Will on a cake for me. Also managed to find some balloons and candles yay!